This particular project consists of building a shed around an existing well and pump. The woodworking projects plan in my head and scribbled:) on paper are for DIY shed plans which in this case I’m making it to be 6′ x 10′ with a 6′ x 4′ door. The layout cannot be done in the normal manner of measuring across in an X pattern to square the corners as the tank and plumbing are in the way.
In this case I drove a metal stake in the position of where I wanted my first corner. From there I used a string, square and tape measure to layout each additional corner. Not perfect, but well within tolerances for a homemade shed.
Next was the use of marking paint to mark the corners where the post holes were to be dug. You can see the paint marks next to the post hole in the first picture.
In this picture you can see that three of the posts are up and concreted in place. Straight 2×4’s, a tape measure and a steel square were used to square the placement of posts 2 and 3.
Also used were 3″ deck screws to keep the 4×4 in place while concrete was poured and post set straight with a level.
10′ 4×4 pressure treated posts were used and holes dug approximately 18″ inches deep to set them in.
Now we have all 6 posts in and some of the framework. Our DIY shed plans call for 2×4’s 2 feet on center to attach the outer covering with. In this case I will use tin.
I did not try to level the ground around the well. Instead I am using pressure treated 2×4’s at ground level attached to each post where it meets the ground. Using the level I find the highest ground to mark my first 2 feet up from the ground to level the 2×4 on center.
From that point a level is used to attach 2×4’s to the adjoining post. The highest ground level was used so that 8′ long tin would fit all the way around the building without cutting. This will leave up to 2 inches of 2×4 exposed at the bottom of the lowest ground level.
The low areas can be sloped up to with the dirt from the holes or just left as is.
Another view shows the bottom pressure treated 2×4 following the ground contour, while the next 2×4 up has been leveled and screwed into place.
Deck screws are used throughout to attach 2×4 to 4×4.
Measuring down from the leveled 2×4 to the bottom 2×4 at the lowest section will determine where the tin will cover. The tin will reach down 25 3/4″ from the top of the leveled 2×4.
As you can see in the picture we also have the third 2×4 from the bottom in place. As the 2×4 just below it has already been leveled we can just measure up 24″ on each end to get the position to place it in.
TIP if you have no one helping, screw a deck screw partially into the 4×4 just below where the 2×4 is to be attached. This will hold one end of the 2×4 in place while you start the other end.
Our shed is now framed out. Just need to put the cross bracing in place.
Some of you that are a little sharp eyed may have noticed an attachment mistake. In order to accommodate a full 6′ high door our second from the top 2×4 needed to be moved up some. It is attached correctly on the left but the right is not 🙁
Ready to attach the trusses now. Because of the rise of our trusses, the tops of the 4×4’s can be left as is at various heights without interference.
In this picture you can see we have corrected our misaligned 2×4 🙂
Trusses can easily be made in place, ordered and built to your specifications or purchase used ones that will work with your project. These particular trusses came from a single wide mobile home roof over, they were given to me just to haul off!
These trusses give me a 22 inch overhang on the sides and I created a 12 inch overhang front and back with the 2×4’s across the trusses.
All the shed construction up to this point was completed by me working alone over one weekend. So far I have approximately 12 hours in this project.